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At the Christian Louboutin show later that day, designer Karl Lagerfeld focused on full skirts and waists cinched tight with belts that appeared to be 10 inches wide. The skirts -- and, in some cases, dresses -- were often made of lace-like fabric with geometric cutouts, translucent materials and other fabrics covered in crushed silk flowers.4 f- N3 A& h; b& D
It was a pretty, genteel collection from a house that specializes in handlouboutin shoes and furs and whose ready-to-wear of-ten looks like a stepchild. This time, the collection had a joyful sensibility.
" y$ U+ Y5 b i+ |The season closed with the Versace presentation Thursday night. The collection recalled one of the most memora-ble dresses created by the late Gianni Versace: the gown worn by actress Elizabeth Hurley that was seemingly held to-gether by giant safety pins. The beauty of the scandalous dress was that it revealed nothing while making the revelation of everything a constant threat.
) d/ ^# }3 B1 @& l* ?, }5 K0 lThe collection presented by his sister,christian louboutin, Donatella Versace, who now heads the label, used zippers as both functional closures and decorative flourishes. They provided a similar peekaboo effect. On her daytime dresses, which the rest of the world would wear for cocktails, the zippers were open and sculpted into the shape of hearts.
2 v; Q) u% w% P/ fIn celebration of the house's 30th anniversary, the signature Medusa head was incorporated into illustrations by Julie Verhoeven. In the resulting prints, the heads have been re-imagined in pastel shades and cast against a fanciful backdrop that is more Alice in Wonderland than Gorgon.* g: Y. t' k, i& J
The print is used on short dresses with sculpted skirts that stand away from the body as well as on gowns encrusted with crystals at the bodice. It is a collection that speaks to the Versace style, not as it was but as it has evolved in the hands of Donatella Versace. It is proof that just because a house has moved on from its past, it doesn't have to lose its panache.8 |& z! n/ k. Z: \1 t# a+ r
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7 \8 ?7 }* \# m. I% w Christian Louboutin had enough sparkle on leather' x; d+ i1 B7 d6 t4 W5 o, r
2 j/ T+ b$ F5 l# }8 |2 q One of her strategies is to buy old floor stock, for example9 @' S" d1 |4 }% a" E" n9 K
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There is a surprising dearth of women designers in Milan and it shows |
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